Hemmerle is a fourth-generation family run house at the vanguard of jewellery design. Each jewel conceived is unique and as original as a work of art. Today, Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle run the business, with the continued support of Stefan and Sylveli Hemmerle. Hemmerle remains renowned for its dedication to craftsmanship, exceptional quality, innovative material combinations, and bold, unostentatious creations.

1893

MEDALS AND ORDERS

In Munich, brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle take over an established goldsmiths’ company specialising in medals and orders, whose clients include the Bavarian Royal family. The brothers bring their own style and ideas to the business, renamed Hemmerle, exploring materials and refining craftsmanship.

A series of medals made by Hemmerle

1895

PURVEYOR TO THE COURT

Hemmerle is appointed 'Purveyor to the Court' by Luitpold, Prince Regent of Bavaria. They become renowned for the 'bejewelled fantasies' they create for Ludwig III of Bavaria, the Bavarian government and the great families of the German nobility.

1900

PARIS EXPOSITION UNIVERSELLE

The Paris Exposition Universelle marks the high point of Art Nouveau, or Jugendstil as the style is known in Germany. Hemmerle, fast gaining a reputation and gathering awards, participate at the Exposition, and win a coveted prize for the Bishop’s Cross in enamel and gemstones that highlights their display.

A bishop cross designed by Hemmerle – back and front side

1904

MAXIMILIANSTRASSE

Hemmerle opens a boutique on Maximilianstrasse, Munich’s imposing and fashionable shopping boulevard. The boutique broadens its scope to include silver, military ornaments and antique jewellery. Hemmerle remains at the same premises today.

Bavarian Maximilian Order for Art and Science back and front side

1905

MAXIMILIAN ORDER

Hemmerle began making the Bavarian Maximilian Order which they still make to this day. First established by King Maximilian II of Bavaria, they are awarded to acknowledge outstanding achievements in science and art. The order is restricted to 100 living members at any one time.

1921

JOSEPH JR UND CARL HEMMERLE

Joseph and Anton’s sons, Joseph Jr. and Carl Hemmerle join the firm after World War I.

1937

CARL HEMMERLE

Carl Hemmerle now takes control of the business.

Portrait of Carl Hemmerle

1968

RENOVATION

The boutique on Maximilianstrasse is renovated by Carl Hemmerle and his wife Lore.

1970

NEXT GENERATION

The next generation makes its mark, as Stefan and Franz Hemmerle take over. Stefan has trained as a goldsmith in Munich, before working with jewellers in France, Italy and Denmark, nurturing new ideas and his individual style. At a time of social and cultural change, with a new approach to luxury and fine jewellery, Stefan, immersed in Hemmerle’s rich and noble heritage, understands jewellery conventions, craftsmanship and traditions well enough to begin to change them.

Stefan Hemmerle

1993

100TH ANNIVERSARY

To mark the 100th Anniversary, Stefan creates a striking Bavarian Lion composed of yellow gold and over 2,000 brown, green, orange and canary-yellow diamonds with yellow-brown sapphires forming the lion’s back. The setting of the diamonds, mixed with their natural colour, makes for a subtle and scintillating texturebrought to life by the design. A party is hosted in Berlin to show the brooch and celebrate the anniversary.

diamond – sapphires – yellow gold

1995

A TRUE CONTEMPORARY
WORK OF ART

Stefan Hemmerle and his wife Sylveli, decide the time is right to break with the past and transform the jewel into a true contemporary work of art. While honouring family heritage, respecting jewellery traditions and revering age-old craftsmanship, Stefan and Sylveli take sole control of the business and conjure an avant-garde aesthetic of powerfully audacious modernity, layered with cultural references, to art, architecture and artisanship. The creative concept, generated by this philosophy, is sparked by a commission from a client, an art collector who ‘detested flashy gems.’ She wears examples of early 19th century Berlin iron jewellery: neo-classical, architectural cast iron ornaments worn by patriotic Germans in place of gold, which they donated to the War effort during the War of Liberation, 1813-15. With this in mind, Stefan Hemmerle decides to set an important diamond in a ring of textured iron.

It’s not every client request that inspires a designer to branch off into a direction he never before imagined and subsequently to develop an entirely new style in doing so.

Alison Burwell – Wmagazine

1995

TEFAF AND PALM BEACH

Hemmerle participate in Tefaf Basel, an art and antiques fair held at the Messe Basel that ran for 4 years. Hemmerle show work at Palm Beach, a jewellery, art and antiques fair in Florida. They continue to exhibit at the fair for 5 years.

Hemmerle stand at TEFAF Basel

1996

NEW AESTHETIC

Barrier-breaking design introduces a whole new aesthetic for Hemmerle, blazing a trail of design-driven, agelessly modernist art jewels balancing powerful simplicity and splendour. Signatures now include daring combinations of colours and textures and the use of the rarest, most intriguing precious stones, set in unexpected materials, such as iron and wood. Totally new to the world of fine jewellery, and perfectly pitched in the minimalist mood of the 90s, the concept heralds a new era for Hemmerle.

Harmony Bangle
diamond – rosegold – iron

It was not my intention to shock, though I did want to inspire.

Stefan Hemmerle

1996

NEAR-EXTINCT TECHNIQUE

Hemmerle revives an early 19th century, near-extinct Austrian technique of woven, knitted, precious gem beads. Each bead is hand-hewn and carved, hand-drilled, impeccably matched for colour, and often carefully calibrated and graduated to achieve a silky gem-mesh knitted in the round, on silk, for bangles or long necklaces, often hung with a signature Hemmerle tassel. This labour-and time-intensive process reflects the pursuit of artisanal excellence.

Century-old German jewellery house Hemmerle is a staunch defender of the craftsman’s trade.

Jessica Diamond – Wallpaper

sapphires – rose quarz– white gold

sapphires – amethyst– white gold

sapphires – garnets – white gold

1998

BOUTIQUE REDESIGN

As the unique Hemmerle aesthetic evolves and strengthens, the Maximilianstrasse boutique is redesigned by Sylveli Hemmerle alongside celebrated Dutch designer and architect, Tom Postma, renowned for his cultural projects, museums and exhibitions, including 2006 Art Basel Miami Beach Fair and the Jordan National Gallery.

1999

CULTURA

A new fair, Cultura, the World Art and Antiques Fair, is organised in Basel by a group of dealers including Stefan Hemmerle. Hemmerle participate in the fair, which ran for five years.

1999

ATELIER EXPANSION

A town house in the heart of Munich is renovated as the atelier expands to house 15 dedicated goldsmiths. All jewellery is made onsite and nothing is outsourced. Every piece is hand-crafted and entirely bespoke. It is not unusual for 500 or more hours to be spent on the making of a single Hemmerle jewel.

2000

ART OF NATURE

A town house in the heart of Munich is renovated as the atelier expands to house 15 dedicated goldsmiths. All jewellery is made onsite and nothing is outsourced. Every piece is hand-crafted and entirely bespoke. It is not unusual for 500 or more hours to be spent on the making of a single Hemmerle jewel.

sapphires – rose quarz– white gold